Friday, May 8, 2009

Chez Panisse

I had lived in the bay area for around 20 years and, until Wednesday, had yet to dine at one of the most iconic restaurants of the region. Chez Panisse, a Berkeley institution, is widely regarded as the birthplace of California Cuisine. Chef Alice Waters stresses the use of local, fresh, organically grown ingredients.

The one-option prix-fixe menu changes daily (and is updated weekly). The last time we tried to go (for Julia's Birthday) we joked about how the worst that could happen would be an all seafood dinner (as I haven't traditionally been a seafood fan). Of course, when they posted the menu for the night we had a reservation, it said in all caps (no joke) TUESDAY: ALL SEAFOOD MENU. Seriously? We decided not to go.

This time around we were more fortunate with the menu:

Wednesday, May 6
Asparagus vinaigrette with farm egg, golden beets, and pancetta
-Um, yum. This might have been the best dish of the meal. The asparagus was tender with a delicately balanced vinaigrette with great citrus, mustard, and garlic flavors. The crumbled pancetta added nice texture and a bit of salt. Perfect.

Local petrale sole belle meunière
-We didn't (and still don't) know what "belle meuniere" means. Sole is a sweet(ish), local fish. This was served in a buttery sauce. There were a few kumkwat pieces on top. I wish there were more, because the bites with the Kumkwat were drastically more flavorful and interesting than the bites without. In general, the dish was decent, but nothing particularly special. My least favorite dish of the night. We had this dish paired with a Vouvray Chenin Blanc. Nice wine, touch of citrus, played well with the fish.

Braised and grilled Laughing Stock pork with morel mushrooms, green garlic purée,
peas, and fava beans
Reminded me of my brother who, as a 12 year old, had a one day internship in the kitchen at Chez Panisse for a school project. He spent most of the day shelling fava beans, so I couldn't help but laugh. The pork was actually served in thin slices, which was a bit of a surprise, but not an unpleasant one. Pork was served au jus with morel mushrooms on top, the entire plate was sprinkled with bright green peas and fava beans. Even though I'm not a huge mushroom fan, the flavor of the morels blended nicely with the pork. Green garlic puree was delicious. I think it was mixed with potatoes. This course was paired with a Gamay Noir from Brickhouse Vineyards in Oregon. It was smokey, and subtle. Nice.

Cannard Farm rhubarb and strawberry tartlet with crème légère
This dish was also in the running for best of the night. Sort of like a fancified strawberry shortcake. Super flaky pastry, topped with a layer of creme legere (whatever it is, its delicious), rhubarb, and super fresh awesome strawberries. Plate was decorated with a rhubarb gastrique. Oh my. Happiness.

On top of the food, it was a very pleasant dining experience. The waiter was friendly and helpful, and the kitchen was open for diners to look at. Now if only it weren't so expensive/difficult to eat locally and organically in my daily life...

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